Recycled Book Furniture

Posted on July 17, 2011 by admin

Making Furniture from BooksIt’s a trend that is gaining popularity – building furniture out of old hardcover books. These unwanted books are in surplus and cant always be recycled because of the glues used to assemble them. It shouldn’t be difficult to track down lots of old books for just pennies each. Once you’ve collected enough books you can start imagining your own creative ways to make them into unique and functional furniture!

Some of Our Favorites

The Floating, Invisible Book-Shelf

Invisible Bookshelf
Photo Courtesy: http://www.savvyhousekeeping.com

This is truly a clever way to organize your books, cds and movies, or you can just use it as decorative shelving!

The Full Book-Shelf

Full Bookshelf Made from Old Books
Photo Courtesy: http://www.murketing.com

Books can be stacked and fixed together in multiple different ways. Here, they are vertically braced to create a bookshelf.

Book Tables & Chairs

Table Made from Old Books
Photo Courtesy: http://roellekids.blogspot.com

We love this idea. Books are stacked to create spiral shapes. I’m sure you can imagine some other ways to implement spiral stacking!

Book Anything!

The possibilities are endless! Furniture such as tables, desks, shelves, chairs, stools, play-hutches for children, you name it! Whatever you can imagine can probably be constructed with old books by themselves, or in combination with other materials.

Some Tips to Get You Started

Most book furniture is sturdy enough using just glue alone. When a book’s pages have been completely glued together, it becomes very solid – a great building block!

Stacking

The easiest way to use books is by simply gluing their pages together and stacking them short-ways to make legs or vertical structures. Stacking books this way will require a lot of books but little effort beyond gluing. You can also get creative and turn the books to make spiral shapes as you stack them!

End-to-End

Standing books upright will require a bit more work, but less books. You can fix books together by placing a small brace of wood or cardboard that goes through the center of each book before gluing the books together (IE: Glue the brace right between the center pages of each book). Remember, you can use a cutting knife to cut out a ‘space’ in the inner pages of each book, for the brace to slide into (so the books will still close flat).

Alternated Layering

You can also assemble books into a solid unit by layering them (inserting one book into the other by cutting out pages to allow them to close tightly and still interconnect). Again, glue will usually suffice to hold books together, but if you’re questioning the structural integrity, you can drill holes and screw the entire book (or books) together (just be sure to hold the pages down tightly as you screw, because they will try to pull up).

Sawing

Sawing Books to Make a ShelfBooks can be sawed into shapes too! Try gluing a book together and cutting it into a triangular shape to create a bracket for horizontal support.

Other Ideas

Some books have really fun titles. You could try creating a conversation piece just by choosing books with strange or unique text on the spine or cover.

For a modern twist, try painting all of the books a solid color (white, red, black…) Or, you could try alternating colors!

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Basics of Soap Making – Recipe for Beginners

Posted on June 14, 2011 by admin

Basic Soap Recipe Before attempting to make your own soap, you should make sure you have collected all the necessary supplies. See: Soap Making Tools & Supplies

NOTE: You will want to avoid using tap water in your soap recipes (especially if you are using public water) as it can contain chlorine and other unwanted chemicals. Purchase distilled water if you do not have access to a clean/safe water supply.

The Recipe

  • 4 ounces (112 grams) of solid coconut oil
  • 4 ounces (112 grams) of olive oil
  • 4 ounces (112 grams) of safflower oil
  • 3 ounces (84 grams) of canola oil
  • 5 ounces (140 grams) of distilled water
  • 2 ounces (56 grams) of lye

Mixing the Lye Solution

After putting on your safety gear and assembling all of your tools and ingredients you can start mixing the lye solution!

  1. Place a small container onto your scale and measure 5 ounces of room temperature distilled water into the container.
  2. Place another container (make sure it is dry!) onto the scale and measure 2 ounces of lye.
  3. Slowly pour the lye into the container of water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and be careful not to splash. This will cause a fowl odor and fumes, so make sure you are working in a ventilated area.
  4. Immediately begin to stir the solution slowly, until the lye has completely dissolved, and set the mixture aside to cool. You will want a temperature of approx. 100 F before mixing the solution into your oils.

Preparing the Oils

Immediately after mixing your lye, you should begin to measure each of your oils into separate containers. After measuring the coconut oil, you will need to heat it in the microwave until it becomes liquid (do this in 20 second spurts until it is fully melted so you don’t overheat it).

Once all of your oils are measured (and your coconut oil is melted), you can mix them all together into a large mixing bowl.

  1. Add your coconut oil to a large mixing bowl (making sure to scrape out as much as possible for the most precise measurement)
  2. Pour the olive oil into the coconut oil (making sure to scrape out as much as possible for the most precise measurement)
  3. Repeat the process with the canola oil
  4. Finally add the safflower oil in the same manner
  5. Gently stir the oils together until you are satisfied they are thoroughly mixed

Mixing the Soap

When the lye is ready it should begin to look clear, and measure a temperature of about 100F.

  1. Start by slowly pouring the lye mixture into the oils and gently stir with a spoon or spatula
  2. The mix should start to look opaque, and at this stage you can choose to use an immersion blender, or continue by hand. Be careful to keep the mixture from splashing.
  3. If using the blender, do so in spurts of 30 seconds with breaks so you can closely watch the thickness of the mixture.
  4. It should become thicker and even more opaque after several minutes (this can take twice as long stirring by hand). As it thickens, it will drip off of your blender (or spoon) more slowly.
  5. To determine when your soap has begun “tracing” you should pull out your mixer every 10 seconds or so, to check how quickly it drips. Soap has begun “tracing” when you can see a visible trail from the drip in the mixture (and it looks somewhat like unset pudding).
  6. It can be difficult to estimate the time it takes for trace to occur because of variations in recipes and mixing methods, so this step can take some practice.
  7. After your soap has started to trace, pour it into your chosen mold (a 3 1/2″ x 6″ x 2 1/2″ plastic container should be the perfect size for this recipe).

24-Hour Saponification

After pouring your soap into the mold, you will want to make sure the container is tightly sealed. Wrap the mold in several layers of towels or blankets to keep as much heat in the soap as possible while it saponifies.

Leave the soap undisturbed for 24 hours before opening the mold. The soap should start to darken and reach a gel-like stage.

If the soap looks powdery or white, it probably has not saponified properly and may need to be pitched. This can happen because the soap did not stay warm enough, because the lye was too cold or hot when it was added to the oils, or when the oils are colder than room temperature.

Cleanup

It’s best to let all of your tools sit for the same 24-hour period before washing them. After 24 hours, the lye should become safe to handle, so cleanup is easier.

Cutting & Drying The Soap

After 24 hours, the soap is safe to handle. It’s now time to remove the soap from your mold and begin cutting it into individual bars.

  1. Place the soap log on a cutting surface and cut into 1″ thick bars (1 inch is considered a good-sized bar of soap).
  2. As you are cutting the bars, line them up (leaving air space between) on your drying surface (make sure this surface is out of direct sunlight and in a location with low humidity).
  3. If you want a smoother-more finished look, use your vegetable peeler to shave off the corners and lumps in the bars.
  4. Your soap will need to air dry for at least a month (the longer a bar of soap dries, the longer it will last when it is used).
  5. The finished soap can then be placed in a box or tray for storage (make sure this is also a dry place where the soap will receive airflow).

<< STEP 1: SOAP MAKING TOOLS & SUPPLIES

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Basics of Soap Making – Tools and Supplies

Posted on June 14, 2011 by admin

Soap making has become more craft than necessity, but with the increasingly wide range of dangerous chemicals being added to most commercial soaps, you might find reason for this craft to be more than just a hobby!

Tools For Making Soap First and foremost, you will need tools! Any tools that are being used for soap making should be dedicated to that purpose alone. Because lye is not safe until it has “set.” It’s best not to take the chance of being exposed to lye by using your soap making tools for other purposes.

Plastic & Glass Containers

plastic containers Because aluminum will react to the lye used to make soap, your best bet is to stick with glass and plastic for any containers you will be mixing in. You will want to have at least one large heavy-weight plastic mixing bowl and a handful of smaller plastic bowls and/or containers for measuring out your oils, liquids and other ingredients. You should also have a large glass measuring cup on hand.

Scale

scale Nearly all of your soap ingredients are going to be measured by weight, and not by volume. Because of this, a kitchen scale is a must. Even a small miscalculation in your recipe could make for a botched batch of soap. You can purchase small kitchen scales online or in kitchen shops at very affordable prices.

Thermometer

thermometer You will need to be able to measure the temperature of the lye solution as precisely as possible, so a thermometer is a must. You can purchase candy-making thermometers at most grocery, craft or kitchen stores.

Soap Molds

soap molds Any container except aluminum can work for molding soap. You can purchase or build your own wooden soap boxes, or even use disposable plastic containers (such as Glad). Just remember that the quantity of soap needs to fit well into the container you choose to use (Some people prefer the preciseness of the wooden boxes, while others swear by plastic containers, since you can easily pop the soap out).

Tools for Mixing

tools for mixing soap The step of mixing your soap is a long process and can be tiring to do by hand. Many people purchase a small immersion blender to help speed up this step. If you prefer to mix by hand, you can try wooden spoons, spatulas, stainless steel whisks (not aluminum) or plastic spoons. You will want two separate utensils: One for stirring the lye, and one for the soap mixture.

Old Towels & Rags

You should keep rags and towels around in case of spills, but you will also want towels to wrap your soap mold in (to keep the soap warm while it goes through the stages of saponification).

Safety Tools

You should always wear plastic dish washing gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, pants, and shoes that cover your toes. Lye will burn your skin if it comes in contact with it at all. You should also consider a pair of goggles and a face mask.

Drying Surface & Storage Containers

wire drying surface Soap needs to be dried with plenty of air circulation. Laying soap on plastic-coated window screen, or needlework canvas is a good way to allow circulation to get both above and below the soap.

After soap has dried, you will want to store it in an open container. This can be a large plastic box, or cardboard (just avoid sealed containers that will not get any airflow).

Tool For Cutting Soap Into Bars

Tool for Cutting Soap Bars The most popular tool for cutting soap into bars, is a board scraper/chopper. You should have at least a 6″ blade. You can also make your own soap cutter using wire.

You May Also Want

  • A vegetable peeler (this works great for cutting off rough edges and smoothing bumps on the finished bars of soap)./li>
  • A coffee grinder or mortar and pestle for grinding up soap additives like oatmeal.

STEP 2: BASIC SOAP RECIPE FOR BEGINNERS >>

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Straw Bale Gardening

Posted on April 21, 2011 by admin
Growing a Straw Bale Garden
Photo Courtesty: www.bayviewcompass.com

Straw bale gardening is the perfect alternative for gardeners facing poor soil conditions, those who are looking for a way to garden with less heavy lifting, or for growing in paved/groundless locations. Straw bale gardens are appropriate for growing almost anything (with the exception of very tall plants such as corn), and can be successfully grown in any zone. The straw bales themselves can be stacked or arranged to create a unique sculptured affect, or to make gardens more accessible to those with trouble bending over.

Choosing the Bales

Planting on Straw Bales
Photo Courtesy: www.wenatcheeworld.com

Straw is the best choice for bale gardening. Hay will contain seeds that may sprout into unwanted weeds later on. In a straw bale, occasional weeds can be easily pulled out, but in a hay bale (which is less coarse), these weeds may be more frequent, and become very difficult to remove.

There are multiple types of straw to choose from: Corn and flax bales are not the best choices because they are extremely coarse and may take too long to decompose enough to provide a good growing medium. The best straw bale choices are barley, wheat, oat or rye.

Most bales will cost somewhere from $2 to $5 per bale, and can be purchased at most nurseries or from a local farmer.

Starting the Garden

Plan where your bales will be placed, and if growing on open ground, lay down a layer of wire mesh beneath the bales (to deter moles or other pests from digging). Place your bales carefully because they will be difficult to move once they have become saturated. Also, be careful about placing bales against objects that will rot easily (such as wooden fences).

If the twine is degradable (such as sisal twine), lay the bales with the straw facing vertical (cut ends up), and the strings facing outward (not against the ground). If using bales with plastic or wire twine, lay the bales string-side down (they will hold more water when placed this way). Try arranging the bales to create a raised border along the entire edge of the garden (this is a popular arrangement).

Baking the Bales – Preparation

If using new bales that have not been wet before, you will need to get them through the baking / cooling stage. This will start the interior decomposition needed to properly grow on the bales. To start the baking process, thoroughly soak the bales with water, and continue to water (not allowing them to dry out) for 5 days. During this period, the bales will begin ‘baking’ with exposure to the heat, sun and moisture. Allow the bales to cool for 1 to 2 weeks before doing any planting (planting too early will scald and kill your plants, but some warmth can actually promote faster root growth).

Planting

If planting seeds, spread a 2″ deep layer of compost soil on top of the bales and plant the seeds directly into the compost. If growing from starter plants, pull the straw apart, pour in a small amount of compost soil, and place the plant into the opening (allowing the straw to fold back into place around the roots). You should follow the normal growing instructions for the plant being placed (for example, you should be able to fit about half a dozen cucumbers – trailing down, on a single bale).

The bales should last 1 to 2 years before needing replaced.

Watering

Straw bale gardens will require more frequent watering that ground gardens because much of the water will drain through the bales. Depending on the weather conditions, you may need to water daily (or in very dry conditions, twice a day). You should have a hose that will easily reach the garden, or some other means of providing water.

There are a variety of ways to provide water to a straw bale garden without daily tending. A popular method is creating a home drip system. This can be easily achieved with a large plastic bottle (such as a soft-drink bottle or milk jug with the plastic cap and inner seal). Remove the cap and create a tiny hole in the center, then take the inner seal and push multiple pin-sized holes through it.

Fill the bottle with water (and if desired some liquid fertilizer) push the inner seal into the cap, and screw on tightly. Turn the bottle upside down into a hole in the bale close to the plant (you might want to place some stones in the bottom of the hole to keep the lid from becoming clogged). This drip system should feed the plants for up to six days depending on the size of the holes.

You can also try placing small pieces of wet cloth below the roots, before planting (these will eventually degrade, but will help hold more moisture at the base of the roots).

Happy straw bale gardening!

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